On the evening of the I4th of October we sailed from Messina in a small armed cutter, carrying the mail from Sicily to the Ionian Isles. [...]
The western coast of Zante exhibits only a range of limestone hills, forming steep cliffs to the sea; and from this side nothing is seen of that picturesque beauty which has obtained from this isle the epithet of "The Flower of the Levant". Cephalonia, on the other hand, shews its fairest part towards the south-west. The deep port of Argostoli branches from this direction towards the interior of the isle, environed by fertile and richly-wooded hills, which rise gradually into the heights of the Black Mountain; a ridge so lofty that it may be seen at the distance of 70 miles, and finely broken by deep gullies in the precipitous front, which it presents to the. southern coast. The respective character of the two islands gradually changed as we proceeded slowly along the channel which divides them. The scenery, too, became each moment more interesting as we advanced; and after passing Capo Skenari, on the coast of Zante, a splendid panorama opened out before us. We now seemed as in a great lake: on the left hand were the mountains of Cephalonia; to the right the shores of Zante, here gradually receding towards the south, softened in character, and extending backwards into rich and luxuriant plains, covered with vineyards, olive-groves, gardens, and villas. In front of the view, and forming a great semicircle to the eye, appeared the sacred shores of the ancient Greece, upon which we now gazed for the first time. The outline of this coast, though yet far distant, shewed us distinctly the opening of the Gulph of Corinth to the Ionian sea; soon, indeed, closed in by the mountains of Achaia and Acarnania which form its boundary; yet not refusing to the fancy all that lies beyond of scenery, consecrated by the history of past ages. From this intermediate point the view extended northwards, even to the hills of Albania, the ancient Epirus; and southwards was carried far along the shores of the Peloponnesus, level and fertile towards the sea, where they form the region of Elis, but rising behind into lofty groupes of mountains, yet more celebrated as a part of the ancient Arcadia.
